Damascene art Damascene (damascening) is the art of inlaying different metals into each other, most often gold or silver into a base of copper, steel or alloys. In general, damascening reflects two different traditional types of design: arabesque – geometric patterns, and renessans – motifs demonstrating variations of birds, animals and flowers.
This technique has a long history. It was used to make jewelry in Japan, was known in Ancient Greece, Egypt, the Roman Empire, China. Damascene is still widely practiced in Spain-Toledo and Japan-Kyoto. The ancient art originated in the city of Toledo in the 9th-11th centuries. Also, the art of decorating products with gold and silver inlays was known in Ancient China, where products were found that were about 2.5 thousand years old.
In the Arab East, the skill of gold inlay was especially widely used in Damascus (from which the name of this art actually came – Damascus – damascene). For many centuries, Toledo was the center of a wide variety of crafts: from traditional carpet making, goldsmithing and engraving to the world-famous toledo damascene. In Toledo, you can see Arabic motifs in the ornaments made by Arab artisans. This also explains the presence of Arabic elements in the Spanish Gothic (Roman) style. As a result of this mixture of Arabic and Christian architecture, a new style was born, called Mudejar, whose traditions are still alive today.
The mixture of these styles is reflected in damascene products. The process of making damascene jewelry is complex and labor-intensive. Using steel tools or by etching, a pattern is knocked out on the surface. Then, an inlay of thin wire or a thin plate of 18 or 24 carat gold is applied to the pre-engraved image (usually a very complex geometric pattern). 24 and 18-karat gold is applied layer by layer, the latter being obtained by mixing 24-karat gold with silver, which gives the gold a subtle greenish tint.
The relief part of the image is laid out with 24-karat thread and fixed, essentially hammered into the engraving of the precious metal. The next stage is oxidation or bluing and heating in a furnace, as a result of which the surface becomes dark, and the pattern becomes more convex and contrasts with the surface. The very last operation is chasing the bas-relief, due to which the pattern acquires relief, after which it is polished to a shine. The final processing – repasado – involves giving the gold or silver elements various shades, a bright color or matte, a mother-of-pearl effect.
The nobility of products decorated with gold and silver notches continues to amaze the imagination today. They undoubtedly attract attention due to the unique decor using gold and silver. Such works of art can also be found among vintage jewelry.
Amita Japan, 1932-present
In 1932, Japanese entrepreneur Shintaro Amita opened the Amita Damaskin company in Kyoto, Japan. The company was engaged in the production of Damaskin jewelry and souvenirs.
In Japan, the Damaskin technique is technically performed differently and is called shakudo. Images of landscapes, plants, flowers, patterns are created using inlays of precious metals, and the background is blackened with acid. Amita Damaskin jewelry has its own unique design and is valued among vintage jewelry lovers and collectors.
