Jewelers

Eugène Feilètre

Silver gilded box PAPILLONS JAUNE BRUN SOLEIL, decorated with plique-à-jour stained glass enamel and citrine, length 10.5 cm, Eugène Feilètre, circa 1912
Silver gilded box PAPILLONS JAUNE BRUN SOLEIL, decorated with plique-à-jour stained glass enamel and citrine, length 10.5 cm, Eugène Feilètre, circa 1912

Eugène Feilètre (1870 – 1916) is known for the beauty and quality of his enamel work, which he carried out to adorn both jewelry and Art Nouveau furnishings.

Born in Dunkirk, Northern France, in 1870, Feliètre worked as an apprentice goldsmith before continuing his apprenticeship with the enamelists Etienne Tourette and Louis Huillon. He was a gifted jeweler and sculptor, but it was the art of enamelling that captured his imagination and he experimented a lot with different materials and techniques. This allowed Feliètre to achieve the blurry, milky-pearl tones that are so characteristic of his work.

From 1890 to 1897, he was in charge of the enamel workshop of René Lalique, who created some of the most iconic jewelery of the period, in which enamel – in particular the plique à jour – played a significant role.

Silver tazza made in the technique of stained glass enamel, height 15 cm, Eugène Feliètre, circa 1900, Musée d'Orsay, Paris
Silver tazza made in the technique of stained glass enamel, height 15 cm, 1900, Musée d’Orsay, Paris.

He opened his own business in 1898 in a workshop at 3 rue Villedot, near the Palais Royal in the 1st arrondissement of Paris. He created pieces for well-known jewelry firms, including the American firm Tiffany & Co.

At the 1900 World’s Fair in Paris, his work attracted the attention of Louis Comfort Tiffany, who was a big fan of the enamelling technique. The archives show that Feliètre supplied his work for sale to Tiffany & Co. Some of them have since been in the company’s collection and are double-labeled – Felière and Tiffany.

Glass candy bowl in a silver frame decorated with stained glass enamel, diameter 14.5 cm, Eugene Feliètre, 1903, Musée d'Orsay, Paris
Glass candy bowl in a silver frame decorated with stained glass enamel, diameter 14.5 cm, 1903, Musée d’Orsay, Paris.

Feliètre is well known for his skill and technical experimentation with enamel, and he demonstrated a range of beautiful effects in his silver and gold jewellery. Many of his works are in private collections and museums such as the Victoria and Albert Museum and the Musée d’Orsay. Feuilletre enlisted in the army in 1914 and died in 1916.

Silver bonbonniere Cherry in embossed openwork gold, decorated with cloisonné enamel, height 5 cm, Eugène Feuilletre, circa 1901, Musée d'Orsay, Paris
Silver bonbonniere Cherry in embossed openwork gold, decorated with cloisonné enamel, height 5 cm, Eugène Feuilletre, circa 1901, Musée d’Orsay, Paris.
Metal vase decorated with cloisonne and painted enamel, decorated with butterflies and flowers in relief, on a stained glass enamel leaf-shaped stand, Eugène Feilètre, circa 1900
Metal vase decorated with cloisonne and painted enamel, decorated with butterflies and flowers in relief. On a stained glass enamel leaf-shaped stand, Eugène Feilètre, circa 1900.
Metal vase decorated with cloisonné and pictorial enamel, decorated with relief butterflies and flowers, on a stained glass enamel leaf stand, height 27 cm, Eugène Feilètre, circa 1910
Metal vase decorated with cloisonné and pictorial enamel, decorated with relief butterflies and flowers, on a stained glass enamel leaf stand, height 27 cm, Eugène Feilètre, circa 1910.
Silver table clock Capuchin, decorated with stained glass enamel and gilding, decorated with butterflies and flowers, height 16 cm, Eugène Feilètre, circa 1902
Silver table clock Capuchin, decorated with stained glass enamel and gilding, decorated with butterflies and flowers, height 16 cm, Eugène Feilètre, circa 1902.
Opal gold ring set with plique-à-jour stained glass enamel, Eugène Feilètre, circa 1900
Opal gold ring set with plique-à-jour stained glass enamel, Eugène Feilètre, circa 1900.
Orchid-headed gold pin set with plique-à-jour stained glass enamel and diamonds, Eugène Feilètre, circa 1900
Orchid-headed gold pin set with plique-à-jour stained glass enamel and diamonds, Eugène Feilètre, circa 1900.
Ophelia gold pendant, decorated with plique-à-jour stained glass enamel, moonstone and diamonds, Eugene Feilètre, circa 1900
Ophelia gold pendant, decorated with plique-à-jour stained glass enamel, moonstone and diamonds, Eugene Feilètre, circa 1900.
Small metal vase in the shape of a poppy head, decorated with cloisonné and painted green enamel, decorated with a peacock feather, 6 cm high, Eugène Feilètre, circa 1898
Small metal vase in the shape of a poppy head, decorated with cloisonné and painted green enamel, decorated with a peacock feather, 6 cm high, Eugène Feilètre, circa 1898.
Enamelled metal vase with stylized cicadas and leaves, height 16 cm, Eugène Feilètre, circa 1910
Enamelled metal vase with stylized cicadas and leaves, height 16 cm, Eugène Feilètre, circa 1910.
Silver glass decorated with enamel, height 13.3 cm, Eugène Feuilletre for Tiffany & Co., circa 1910
Silver glass decorated with enamel, height 13.3 cm, Eugène Feuilletre for Tiffany & Co., circa 1910.
Silver bottle decorated with enamel, height 21 cm, Eugène Feilètre, circa 1900
Silver bottle decorated with enamel, height 21 cm, Eugène Feilètre, circa 1900.
Peridot necklace with gold pendant set with plique-à-jour stained glass enamel and diamonds, Eugene Feilètre
Peridot necklace with gold pendant set with plique-à-jour stained glass enamel and diamonds.
Enamelled copper bowl, 16 cm diameter, probably Eugène Feilètre, circa 1910
Enamelled copper bowl, 16 cm diameter, circa 1910.
Gold bracelet set with plique-à-jour stained glass enamel, opal and diamonds, Eugene Feliètre, circa 1905
Gold bracelet set with plique-à-jour stained glass enamel, opal and diamonds, circa 1905.
Enamelled metal vase with stylized butterflies, Eugene Feilètre, 1912-1914
Enamelled metal vase with stylized butterflies, 1912-1914.
Small plate decorated with cloisonné and pictorial enamel, Eugène Feilètre, circa 1910
Small plate decorated with cloisonné and pictorial enamel, Eugène Feilètre, circa 1910.
Silver vase on stand, decorated with cloisonne and painted enamel with floral designs and applied decoration with scarabs, Eugène Feilètre, 1910
Silver vase on stand, decorated with cloisonne and painted enamel with floral designs and applied decoration with scarabs, 1910.
Silver inkwell decorated with peacock feather enamel, Eugène Feilètre, 1900
Silver inkwell decorated with peacock feather enamel, 1900.
Gold pendant brooch depicting a water nymph, decorated with plique-à-jour stained glass enamel, Eugène Feilètre, circa 1900
Gold pendant brooch depicting a water nymph, decorated with plique-à-jour stained glass enamel, .circa 1900.
Silver gilded buckle decorated with enamel, Eugene Feilètre
Silver gilded buckle decorated with enamel.
Round silver box decorated with enamel, Eugene Feilètre
Round silver box decorated with enamel.
Gold pendant Orange Blossom, decorated with enamel, Eugène Feilètre, circa 1900
Gold pendant Orange Blossom, decorated with enamel, circa 1900.
Butterfly Woman gold pendant decorated with plique-à-jour stained glass enamel, Eugène Feilètre, circa 1900
Butterfly Woman gold pendant decorated with plique-à-jour stained glass enamel, 1900.
Gilded metal vase decorated with enamel, height 10 cm, Eugène Feilètre, circa 1900
Gilded metal vase decorated with enamel, height 10 cm, circa 1900.
Silver gilded vase, decorated with enamel, with an ornament in the form of wisteria inflorescences, height 32 cm, Eugène Feilètre, circa 1900
Silver gilded vase, decorated with enamel, with an ornament in the form of wisteria inflorescences, height 32 cm, circa 1900.
Copper vase Six butterflies on a silver stand, decorated with enamel, height 25 cm, Eugene Feliètre, circa 1900
Copper vase Six butterflies on a silver stand, decorated with enamel, height 25 cm, 1900.
Copper vase with a lake landscape, decorated with enamel, height 25 cm, Eugène Feuilletre, circa 1901, Musée d'Orsay, Paris
Copper vase with a lake landscape, decorated with enamel, height 25 cm, 1901, Musée d’Orsay, Paris.