Jewelers

Fulco di Verdura – star jeweler

Bud-shaped gold brooch set with enamel, sapphires and diamonds, Verdura.
Bud-shaped gold brooch set with enamel, sapphires and diamonds, Fulco di Verdura.

Flowers and animals, exquisite interiors and unusual meetings – all this Fulco di Verdura kept in his memory and embodied in his work, but it was the treasury library that prompted him to engage in art. At the age of ten, he found a book volume with reproductions of Raphael’s works – and fell in love with the serene faces of his Madonnas. So, childishly imitating the titan of the Renaissance, Fulk began to draw. He covered sheet after sheet with awkward scribbles, and the farther, the more bewitched his art. Even then, he began to make jewelry from shells – in the future, the precious shell would become di Verdura’s favorite motif.

Di Verdura’s talent was appreciated – his jewelry was adored by the stars. Marlene Dietrich, Joan Fontaine, Greta Garbo and Joan Crawford were ready to give any money for bracelets and brooches from the “prince of jewelers”. Did not remain indifferent and Diana Vreeland – editor of Vogue, a living legend. Fulko owes her an acquaintance and further cooperation with Paul Flato, a leading American jeweler. The success of Verdura’s jewelry line for Flato was overwhelming.

Maltese cross cuff bracelet in gold, jade, amethysts, ruby, pearls and diamonds, Verdura.
Maltese cross cuff bracelet in gold, jade, amethysts, ruby, pearls and diamonds, Fulco di Verdura.

Di Verdura became a real American, moving to America turned out to be the best decision he ever made. On September 1, 1939, the Second World War began, and Fulk opened his first boutique on the same day…

In 1941, his joint work with Salvador Dali appeared, created based on the famous paintings of the artist. The surrealistic collection consisted of five objects – the Medusa brooch, Saint Sebastian, Apollo and Daphne, the Spider cigarette case and the Fallen Angel box.

After that, in the work of di Verdura, surrealism became the main direction. Subsequently, he collaborated with Dali twice more.

Maltese cross cuff bracelet in gold, cacholong, pearls and diamonds, Verdura.
Maltese cross cuff bracelet in gold, cacholong, pearls and diamonds, Verdura.

Di Verdura revived the ancient Italian tradition of combining gold and enamel, one of the first to use threading in jewelry and made all the world’s jewelers fall in love with platinum. He restored antique jewelry and used Renaissance images in his products. Di Verdura did not shy away from extravagant materials – one of the lily-of-the-valley brooches included milk teeth of the customer’s children instead of pearls.

Gold brooch Wrapped Heart with amethysts and diamonds, Fulco di Verdura
Gold brooch Wrapped Heart with amethysts and diamonds, Verdura.
Coco Chanel wearing Verdura bracelets
Coco Chanel wearing Verdura bracelets
Cuff bracelet with Maltese cross.Fulco di Verdura
Cuff bracelet with Maltese cross.
In this photo, Greta Garbo is wearing the Curb-Link bracelet and watch she has worn throughout her life.
In this photo, Greta Garbo is wearing the Curb-Link bracelet and watch she has worn throughout her life.
Joan Fontaine wearing the Verdura Wing brooch in Hitchcock's Suspicion, 1941.
Joan Fontaine wearing the Verdura Wing brooch in Hitchcock’s Suspicion, 1941.
Fulco di Verdura. Princess Diana is photographed wearing the Double Crescent Moon bracelet and Diana earrings at the Christie's charity sale of her gowns.
Princess Diana is photographed wearing the Double Crescent Moon bracelet and Diana earrings at the Christie’s charity sale of her gowns.
Fulco di Verdura. Thames & Hudson released an illustrated biography by Patricia Corbett, Verdura. The Life and Works of a Master Jeweler.
Thames & Hudson released an illustrated biography by Patricia Corbett, Verdura. The Life and Works of a Master Jeweler.
Gold, agate, gold, coral, enamel and diamond cuff bracelet, Fulco di Verdura.
Gold, agate, gold, coral, enamel and diamond cuff bracelet, Verdura.