Brands

Henkel & Grosse jewerly brand

Gold Link Chain Layering Necklace By Henkel Grosse 1970s
Gold Link Chain Layering Necklace By Henkel Grosse 1970s.

The name Henkel & Grosse (Grossé is their trademark) is known to many lovers of Dior jewelry. Many ladies dream of getting their jewelry in their collection of vintage jewelry.

By 1947, the jewelry company Henkel & Grosse already had a very good reputation. The history of the company dates back to 1907, when two people connected by family ties, Heinrich Henkel and Florentin Grosse, founded a factory in the so-called Gold City of jewelers – Pforzheim, specializing in hair jewelry and chains for watches, which brought them recognition until the First World War.

Set of massive necklace and bracelet
Set of massive necklace and bracelet.

Demand for jewelry ensured the company’s survival, and after World War I, the range was expanded to include alpaca mesh purses and cigarette cases, among other lines. The company, after the economic crisis of 1929, mainly switched to the manufacture of high-quality costume jewelry. In the 1930s, their business flourished, creating spectacular jewelry made from gallalite, a synthetic plastic based on casein and formaldehyde.

Intricate 1940s Bracelet with Purple Glass Stone Henkel Grosse
Intricate 1940s Bracelet with Purple Glass Stone Henkel Grosse.

New European markets were found. Exceptional design and craftsmanship attracted the attention of major Parisian designers such as Lanvin, Robert Piguet and Schiaparelli, and in 1936 a sales office was opened in Paris, and in 1937 they received a medal at the Paris World Exhibition.

The Second World War virtually destroyed the jewelry industry, international markets were lost and the availability of materials was reduced.

Henkel Gross Germany 1972 Modernist Gold Brooch
Henkel Gross Germany 1972 Modernist Gold Brooch.

In 1945, Pforzheim was completely destroyed by British bombers. The headquarters of Henkel & Grosse was destroyed, new premises and a new business strategy were required for a radically changed world. The connections established before the war, understanding of the peculiarities of American fashion helped the company to adapt quickly enough in the changed world. A new marketing policy was developed, a sales office was opened in New York and collections were developed specifically for the American market.

A separate company, Christian Dior Bijoux, was created. Henkel & Grosse continued to produce their own jewelry under their own brand.

Vintage Grosse Heart Crystal Earrings 1980s
Vintage Grosse Heart Crystal Earrings 1980s.

The license agreement lasted for over 50 years. In 2005, the creative union was terminated, a deal was concluded to sell shares and assets owned by Henkel & Grosse.

Henkel & Grosse began looking for a new partner and in 2007 a new alliance was formed with the Fattedad family, with whom they had been cooperating for many years, Grosse Hong Kong Limited was created, targeting buyers from Japan, China and South Korea.

Vintage Grosse Turquoise Lapis Tassle Statement Earrings 1970s
Vintage Grosse Turquoise Lapis Tassle Statement Earrings 1970s.

From September 17 to November 14, 2010, Grosse opened and successfully exhibited the exhibition “50s Jewelry; Christian Dior and Grosse from the house of Henkel & Grosse”, presenting to the general public jewelry made in the 50s – 70s of the last century for Dior .

As a result of this exhibition, the famous French designer Vivienne Becker wrote the book “Grosse + Bijoux Christian Dior.

Vintage Grosse Gold Plated Bracelet 1970s
Vintage Grosse Gold Plated Bracelet 1970s.
Trademark
Trademark.