Jeweler Elisabeth Treskow

Elizabeth Tresckow (1898–1992).
Elizabeth Tresckow (1898–1992).

“My attempts to wait for the Muses to kiss me have always failed. I think they prefer to kiss those whose brows are damp with the sweat of ardent effort than those who idly await their arrival.” Elisabeth Treskow.

Gold necklace with opals, Elisabeth Treskow, circa 1918, from the collection of the Pforzheim Jewellery Museum.
Gold necklace with opals, Elisabeth Treskow, circa 1918, from the collection of the Pforzheim Jewellery Museum.

In the spring and summer of 2025, the Cologne Cathedral Treasury Library hosted an exhibition dedicated to the outstanding Cologne master jeweler Elisabeth Treskow (1898-1992), who is considered one of the first German women to achieve recognition in a previously male-dominated field of craftsmanship. The location of the exhibition was not chosen by chance. After Elisabeth Treskow was appointed head of the goldsmith and silversmith class at the Cologne College in 1948, she was increasingly approached with orders for the production and maintenance of ecclesiastical art.

In particular, she was engaged in the restoration of the Tomb of the Three Magi, a reliquary which, according to legend, contains the remains of the three biblical Magi (or three kings). This masterpiece was made by medieval craftsmen in the late 12th – early 13th centuries after the relics of the Magi were taken from Milan, devastated by the troops of Frederick Barbarossa, and transferred to the Cologne Cathedral, where they have been kept for 850 years.

Cancer of the Three Magi, Cologne.
Cancer of the Three Magi, Cologne.

These important restoration works of historical works of art were entrusted to Elisabeth Treskow as a recognized master, whose experience is confirmed by numerous awards received at international exhibitions. But let’s go back to the beginning of Elisabeth’s creative path.

She began her first steps in the art of jewelry in 1914 in Hagen under the guidance of the Dutch silversmith Frans Zwollo (1872-1945). In 1915, Elisabeth Treskow attended a metalworking class in Essen and studied painting. She then studied for two years at the Royal Technical University of Precious Metals in Schwäbisch Gmünd and took lessons from the famous jeweler Karl Rothmüller in Munich.

Reliquary from the 11th century from the treasury of Cologne Cathedral, restoration 1958.
Reliquary from the 11th century from the treasury of Cologne Cathedral, restoration 1958.

Driven by her interest in ancient art and literature, she focused her efforts on studying Etruscan jewelry and discovered the granulation technique used by the Etruscans. The special feature of this technique is that small gold beads, some of which are the size of dust, are soldered to a metal base without fusing with it.

In 1937, Elisabeth was awarded a gold medal for her work at the World Exhibition in Paris. And the following year, the German Society of Jewellers awarded her the Honorary Golden Ring, making her the first woman to receive such an award.

Bishop's crosier with dolphin head, Cologne, restoration 1961 Karlsruhe, Baden State Museum.
Bishop’s crosier with dolphin head, Cologne, restoration 1961 Karlsruhe, Baden State Museum.

One of Elisabeth Treskow’s most famous works is certainly the “Championship Cup”, an award from the German Football Association, which is presented to the club that wins the national championship. Elisabeth created it together with her students from the Cologne School of Masters in 1949.

Football championships in Germany have been held since 1903. And then the winner was awarded a trophy in the form of a statue of the winged goddess of victory by Christian Rauch. After the Second World War, the statuette disappeared, it seemed, forever. That’s when the decision was made to create a new version of the championship trophy.

Gold brooch decorated with granulation and sapphires, Elisabeth Treskow, 1967, from the collection of the Museum of Applied Arts Cologne.
Gold brooch decorated with granulation and sapphires, Elisabeth Treskow, 1967, from the collection of the Museum of Applied Arts Cologne.

The bowl, nicknamed by wits because of its shape “salad bowl”, was created using 5.5 kilograms of silver and decorated with five large and eleven small tourmalines. The trophy is engraved with the names of all the German champion clubs since 1903. In 1981, the dish became too small for new engravings, so another silver element was added to its bottom, attached to the original with silver screws. In 2009, another modernization was carried out – five engraving plates were replaced with new, larger ones. Now there should be enough space for champions until 2027. The total weight of the bowl is now about 11 kilograms with a diameter of 59 centimeters.

Gold brooch decorated with granulation, sapphire, pearl and diamonds, Elisabeth Treskow, 1953, from the collection of the Museum of Applied Arts Cologne.
Gold brooch decorated with granulation, sapphire, pearl and diamonds, Elisabeth Treskow, 1953, from the collection of the Museum of Applied Arts Cologne.

In conclusion of the story, it is worth saying that the statuette of the goddess of victory was still found in the nineties of the last century after the reunification of Germany. It is believed that it was in East Germany all these years. But there are other versions.

Elisabeth Treskow lived a long and fruitful life. In her last years, she lived in a nursing home in the city of Bruhl, near Cologne. In 2006, one of the squares in Cologne was named after her.

Brooch Bunch of Grapes, gold, diamonds, Elisabeth Treskow, circa 1941, from the collection of the Pforzheim Jewellery Museum.
Brooch Bunch of Grapes, gold, diamonds, Elisabeth Treskow, circa 1941, from the collection of the Pforzheim Jewellery Museum.
Football championship trophy with a statue of the goddess of victory by Christian Rauch.
Football championship trophy with a statue of the goddess of victory by Christian Rauch.
The German Football Association's Champions Cup.
The German Football Association’s Champions Cup.
Lord Mayor's Chain of the City of Cologne by Elisabeth Treskow, Cologne, 1954 1955.
Lord Mayor’s Chain of the City of Cologne by Elisabeth Treskow, Cologne, 1954 1955.
Gold ring with emeralds, diamonds and grain, Elizabeth Treskow.
Gold ring with emeralds, diamonds and grain, Elizabeth Treskow.
Gold necklace with pearl and watermelon tourmaline pendants, Elizabeth Treskow, circa 1968 70.
Gold necklace with pearl and watermelon tourmaline pendants, Elizabeth Treskow, circa 1968 70.
Gold signet ring with rubies and antique gold and silver alloy coin depicting a ram and rooster's head, Elizabeth Treskow, circa 1960.
Gold signet ring with rubies and antique gold and silver alloy coin depicting a ram and rooster’s head, Elizabeth Treskow, circa 1960.
Gold bracelet set with grain and diamonds, Elizabeth Treskow, circa 1960.
Gold bracelet set with grain and diamonds, Elizabeth Treskow, circa 1960.
Gold earrings with rubies and sapphires, Elizabeth Treskow, circa 1960.
Gold earrings with rubies and sapphires, Elizabeth Treskow, circa 1960.
Gold brooch with black opal, demantoid garnets, pearls and sapphires, Elizabeth Treskow, circa 1967.
Gold brooch with black opal, demantoid garnets, pearls and sapphires, Elizabeth Treskow, circa 1967.
Gold emerald brooch, Elizabeth Tresckow, circa 1962.
Gold emerald brooch, Elizabeth Tresckow, circa 1962.
Gold beaded bracelet, Elizabeth Treskow, circa 1960.
Gold beaded bracelet, Elizabeth Treskow, circa 1960.
Renaissance gold pendant with baroque pearl, Elizabeth Treskow, circa 1960.
Renaissance gold pendant with baroque pearl, Elizabeth Treskow, circa 1960.
Gold pendant with peridot and granulation, Elizabeth Treskow, circa 1930.
Gold pendant with peridot and granulation, Elizabeth Treskow, circa 1930.
Capricorn brooch and Taurus pendant, gold, turquoise, gold grain, Elizabeth Treskow, circa 1940.
Capricorn brooch and Taurus pendant, gold, turquoise, gold grain, Elizabeth Treskow, circa 1940.
Gold bracelet with sapphires, star rubies and pearls, decorated with granulation, Elizabeth Treskow, circa 1939.
Gold bracelet with sapphires, star rubies and pearls, decorated with granulation, Elizabeth Treskow, circa 1939.
Gold necklace with chrysoprase, Elizabeth Treskow, circa 1931 32.
Gold necklace with chrysoprase, Elizabeth Treskow, circa 1931 32.
Gold pendant with tourmalines and citrines, decorated with granulation, Elizabeth Treskow, circa 1938.
Gold pendant with tourmalines and citrines, decorated with granulation, Elizabeth Treskow, circa 1938.
Gold necklace with interchangeable center stone by Elizabeth Treskow. The necklace was made in the late 1920s and was redesigned in 1932 with an interchangeable fire opal.
Gold necklace with interchangeable center stone by Elizabeth Treskow. The necklace was made in the late 1920s and was redesigned in 1932 with an interchangeable fire opal.
Gold chrysoprase brooch, Elizabeth Treskow, 1921 1922.
Gold chrysoprase brooch, Elizabeth Treskow, 1921 1922.
Gold ring with turquoise and beading, Elizabeth Treskow, circa 1942.
Gold ring with turquoise and beading, Elizabeth Treskow, circa 1942.
Gold necklace with links set with sapphires and granulation, Elizabeth Treskow, circa 1939.
Gold necklace with links set with sapphires and granulation, Elizabeth Treskow, circa 1939.