Jeweler Karl Rothmüller

Peacock brooch designed by Georg Petzold, silver, gilt, opal, enamel, pearls, Karl Rothmüller, 1902, from the collection of the Bavarian National Museum, Munich.
Peacock brooch designed by Georg Petzold, silver, gilt, opal, enamel, pearls, Karl Rothmüller, 1902, from the collection of the Bavarian National Museum, Munich.

Karl Rothmüller (1860-1930) was a jeweler, jewelry designer and professor of fine arts from Bavaria. He was one of the most important German masters of his time and one of the main representatives of the Munich jewelry art, which flourished at the turn of the century.

Brooch pendant by Karl Rothmüller with opal, peridot, rubies and pearls, 1898, from the historical collection of the Danner Foundation, Munich.
Brooch pendant by Karl Rothmüller with opal, peridot, rubies and pearls, 1898, from the historical collection of the Danner Foundation, Munich.

Rothmüller studied at the Royal School of Arts and Crafts in Munich and the Vienna School of Arts and Crafts. From 1883 to 1885, he worked in the workshop of Fritz von Miller, and in 1886 he opened his own workshop, starting a dynasty of jewelers that continues to this day. Contemporaries called Rothmüller the Lalique of Munich. His works were highly appreciated at international exhibitions in Chicago (1893) and Paris (1900). In 1908, he received the title of “Royal Bavarian Jeweler”.

Silver gilt brooch with opal and pearl, Karl Rothmüller, 1906, from the collection of the Bavarian National Museum, Munich.
Silver gilt brooch with opal and pearl, Karl Rothmüller, 1906, from the collection of the Bavarian National Museum, Munich.

Most of Rothmüller’s jewelry does not have a maker’s mark. Therefore, his works are often attributed to other masters of the time. This happened with the famous “Octopus” buckle, the authorship of which was attributed to Wilhelm Lucas Cranach, the namesake of the famous artist. Fortunately, photographic plates with the works of Karl Rothmüller have survived, which contain the design of this brooch. The same story happened with the next two pieces of jewelry: a brooch with snakes and a brooch with a mermaid.

Gold pendant with sapphire, peridots and pearls, Karl Rothmüller, circa 1912, from the collection of the Bavarian National Museum, Munich.
Gold pendant with sapphire, peridots and pearls, Karl Rothmüller, circa 1912, from the collection of the Bavarian National Museum, Munich.

The descendants of Karl Rothmüller managed to restore the family business after World War II. And now the company is run by Karl Rothmüller in the fifth generation.

Gold ring in the form of a stylized octopus with sapphire and rubies, Karl Rothmüller, circa 1901.
Gold ring in the form of a stylized octopus with sapphire and rubies, Karl Rothmüller, circa 1901.
Silver Octopus necklace with opals, rubies and pearls, Karl Rothmüller, circa 1900.
Silver Octopus necklace with opals, rubies and pearls, Karl Rothmüller, circa 1900.
Silver gilt brooch with opal, rubies and mother of pearl Rothmüller, 1910, from the collection of the Bavarian National Museum, Munich.
Silver gilt brooch with opal, rubies and mother of pearl Rothmüller, 1910, from the collection of the Bavarian National Museum, Munich.
Silver gilded brooch with opal, rubies and mother of pearl Rothmüller, 1908, from the collection of the Hessian State Museum, Darmstadt.
Silver gilded brooch with opal, rubies and mother of pearl Rothmüller, 1908, from the collection of the Hessian State Museum, Darmstadt.
Gold and platinum brooch with opal, diamonds and peridots, Karl Rothmüller, 1908 1910, from the collection of the Bavarian National Museum, Munich.
Gold and platinum brooch with opal, diamonds and peridots, Karl Rothmüller, 1908 1910, from the collection of the Bavarian National Museum, Munich.
Silver pendant with jade and amethysts, Karl Rothmüller, circa 1912, from the collection of the Bavarian National Museum, Munich.
Silver pendant with jade and amethysts, Karl Rothmüller, circa 1912, from the collection of the Bavarian National Museum, Munich.
Peacock feather brooch in gold and platinum with moonstone, opals and peridots, Karl Rothmüller, 1908, from the collection of the Bavarian National Museum, Munich.
Peacock feather brooch in gold and platinum with moonstone, opals and peridots, Karl Rothmüller, 1908, from the collection of the Bavarian National Museum, Munich.
Gold necklace with opals and demantoid garnets, Karl Rothmüller, circa 1910.
Gold necklace with opals and demantoid garnets, Karl Rothmüller, circa 1910.
Gold and silver brooch with emeralds, diamonds and pearls, Karl Rothmüller, circa 1898.
Gold and silver brooch with emeralds, diamonds and pearls, Karl Rothmüller, circa 1898.
Medusa brooch, silver, gold plated, rubies, pearls, Karl Rothmüller, circa 1900.
Medusa brooch, silver, gold plated, rubies, pearls, Karl Rothmüller, circa 1900.
Silver gilt brooch with black opal, Karl Rothmüller, from the collection of the Bavarian National Museum, Munich.
Silver gilt brooch with black opal, Karl Rothmüller, from the collection of the Bavarian National Museum, Munich.
Gold and silver brooch with rubies, demantoid garnets and pearls, Karl Rothmüller, circa 1898.
Gold and silver brooch with rubies, demantoid garnets and pearls, Karl Rothmüller, circa 1898.
Gold necklace with opals, peridots and pearls, Karl Rothmüller, circa 1900.
Gold necklace with opals, peridots and pearls, Karl Rothmüller, circa 1900.
Decoration on velvet ribbon (sklavage, velveteen) with peridot, amethysts and pearls, Karl Rothmüller, circa 1910 1912, from the collection of the Bavarian National Museum, Munich.
Decoration on velvet ribbon (sklavage, velveteen) with peridot, amethysts and pearls, Karl Rothmüller, circa 1910 1912, from the collection of the Bavarian National Museum, Munich.
Gold pendant with fire opal, peridots and pearls, Karl Rothmüller, circa 1925, from the collection of the Bavarian National Museum, Munich.
Gold pendant with fire opal, peridots and pearls, Karl Rothmüller, circa 1925, from the collection of the Bavarian National Museum, Munich.
Gold and enamel brooch with rubies and pearls, Karl Rothmüller, circa 1910.
Gold and enamel brooch with rubies and pearls, Karl Rothmüller, circa 1910.
Photocopies of works by Karl Rothmuller.
Photocopies of works by Karl Rothmuller.
Gold brooch Eternally Entwined Serpents with peridot, diamonds and pearl by Karl Rothmüller, circa 1900.
Gold brooch Eternally Entwined Serpents with peridot, diamonds and pearl by Karl Rothmüller, circa 1900.
Mermaid brooch in silver with coral and pearls by Karl Rothmüller, circa 1900, from the collection of the Richard H. Driehaus Museum, Chicago.
Mermaid brooch in silver with coral and pearls by Karl Rothmüller, circa 1900, from the collection of the Richard H. Driehaus Museum, Chicago.
Pendant with a beryl in a gold, enamel and diamond setting, Hans Rothmüller (son of Karl), circa 1930, from the collection of the Bavarian National Museum, Munich.
Pendant with a beryl in a gold, enamel and diamond setting, Hans Rothmüller (son of Karl), circa 1930, from the collection of the Bavarian National Museum, Munich.
Karl Rothmüller (1860 1930), founder of the workshop.
Karl Rothmüller (1860 1930), founder of the workshop.
1979, Karl Rothmüller, master jeweler, gemologist, diamond expert, and his wife Monika, designer and commercial director.
1979, Karl Rothmüller, master jeweler, gemologist, diamond expert, and his wife Monika, designer and commercial director.
Octopus Buckle by Karl Rothmüller, which was shown at the Maker & Muse exhibition at the Richard H. Driehaus Museum in Chicago as a work by Wilhelm Lucas Cranach. Silver, partly gilded, opal, garnets, chalcedony, circa 1900.
Octopus Buckle by Karl Rothmüller, which was shown at the Maker & Muse exhibition at the Richard H. Driehaus Museum in Chicago as a work by Wilhelm Lucas Cranach. Silver, partly gilded, opal, garnets, chalcedony, circa 1900.