John Dyer – The Art of Cutting

John Dyer, the first person to win an entire category at the AGTA Cutting Edge Awards (2005)
John Dyer, the first person to win an entire category at the AGTA Cutting Edge Awards (2005)

What is the difference between a good cut and a bad one? A gemstone should sparkle. Only a good cut makes a colored stone a gem. Many gemstones sparkle only on the outer edge with a dead zone in the middle. This is known as a window cut or a fisheye cut.

John Dyer & Co Montana StarBrite Sapphire in an engagement ring by TK Anderson Designs.
John Dyer & Co Montana StarBrite Sapphire in an engagement ring by TK Anderson Designs.

John Dyer is a world-renowned gem cutter. Since 2002, he has won 58 American Gem Trade Association (AGTA) cutting awards, taking a total of 14 first place awards. He is the only gem cutter to have won all the awards in one AGTA category three times (2005, 2007, and 2015). It is hard to believe that this master is essentially self-taught. When he and his brother David decided to start a gemstone business in 1996, they started the business with a trip to Zambia to bring back emeralds and aquamarines to be cut.

Green tourmaline cut by John Dyer & Co in a ring by Cory Smith Studios.
Green tourmaline cut by John Dyer & Co in a ring by Cory Smith Studios.

The cutter charged a high price for the job and did such a poor job that two of the three emeralds he cut had to be recut because they were unsellable. So John decided to take matters into his own hands, buying his first cutting machine. Through trial and error, he perfected his skills and pored over books on gemstone cutting until beautiful, sparkling gemstones began to emerge from his cutting wheel.

Fancy cut aquamarine by John Dyer & Co on a ring by Jeff Appling.
Fancy cut aquamarine by John Dyer & Co on a ring by Jeff Appling.

Today, John and his company create gemstones cut in many styles, from classic shapes with exceptional brilliance to concave, avant-garde fantasy modern cuts. And the list of gemstones is mind-boggling: amethyst, ametrine, aquamarine, citrine, garnet, beryl, morganite, tourmaline, topaz, Oregon sunstone, tanzanite, sapphire and many others.

Bolivian ametrines cut by John Dyer & Co in rings by KHR Jewels.
Bolivian ametrines cut by John Dyer & Co in rings by KHR Jewels.

The jewelry from various jewelers in this selection uses stones cut by John Dyer & Co. The variety of cuts is amazing. For each stone, the master selects the cut option that will best show the beauty of the gemstone.

John Dyer & Co Starbrite beryl in a ring by MC Jeweller.
John Dyer & Co Starbrite beryl in a ring by MC Jeweller.
A StarBrite cut green sapphire by John Dyer & Co in a ring by Artrium Jewelry.
A StarBrite cut green sapphire by John Dyer & Co in a ring by Artrium Jewelry.
Dreamscape cut ametrine by John Dyer & Co. in a pendant by Mary Anne Archer Designs.
Dreamscape cut ametrine by John Dyer & Co. in a pendant by Mary Anne Archer Designs.
Dreamscape cut citrine by John Dyer & Co, set in a pendant by Master Jewelers. 1st Place, 2012 North Dakota Minnesota Jewelers Association Design Competition.
Dreamscape cut citrine by John Dyer & Co, set in a pendant by Master Jewelers. 1st Place, 2012 North Dakota Minnesota Jewelers Association Design Competition.
A Dreamscape cut blue topaz by John Dyer & Co, set in a pendant by Cassanova's Jewelry.
A Dreamscape cut blue topaz by John Dyer & Co, set in a pendant by Cassanova’s Jewelry.
A Starbrite cut blue topaz by John Dyer & Co, set in a pendant by Red Tree Jewellers.
A Starbrite cut blue topaz by John Dyer & Co, set in a pendant by Red Tree Jewellers.
A Dreamscape cut aquamarine by John Dyer & Co, set in a pendant by jeweller Adam Garrett.
A Dreamscape cut aquamarine by John Dyer & Co, set in a pendant by jeweller Adam Garrett.
A pair of Dreamscape cut ametrines, cut by John Dyer & Co, in a necklace by Cassanova's Jewelry.
A pair of Dreamscape cut ametrines, cut by John Dyer & Co, in a necklace by Cassanova’s Jewelry.
Dreamscape cut orange citrine by John Dyer & Co, set in a pendant by Benjamin King Anders.
Dreamscape cut orange citrine by John Dyer & Co, set in a pendant by Benjamin King Anders.
A blue topaz cut by John Dyer & Co in a pendant by Gary Dulac Goldsmiths.
A blue topaz cut by John Dyer & Co in a pendant by Gary Dulac Goldsmiths.
Amethyst cut by John Dyer & Co in a fantasy pendant by Organic Bling.
Amethyst cut by John Dyer & Co in a fantasy pendant by Organic Bling.
Dreamscape cut amethyst by John Dyer & Co in a pendant by Sarahdigm Shifts.
Dreamscape cut amethyst by John Dyer & Co in a pendant by Sarahdigm Shifts.
A bi color Dreamscape cut amethyst by John Dyer & Co, set in a pendant by Peter Barr Designing Jewelers.
A bi color Dreamscape cut amethyst by John Dyer & Co, set in a pendant by Peter Barr Designing Jewelers.
Dreamscape Citrine cut by John Dyer & Co in a Dulac Goldsmiths Gold pendant.
Dreamscape Citrine cut by John Dyer & Co in a Dulac Goldsmiths Gold pendant.
Dreamscape aquamarine cut by John Dyer & Co, in a pendant by Sarahdigm Shifts.
Dreamscape aquamarine, in a pendant by Sarahdigm Shifts.
Blue topaz with rhodolite, cut by John Dyer & Co, in a bracelet by JS Gwinn Fine Jewelry.
Blue topaz with rhodolite, cut, in a bracelet by JS Gwinn Fine Jewelry.
Starbrite pink sapphire cut by John Dyer & Co in a ring by Underwoods Fine Jewelers.
Starbrite pink sapphire cut in a ring by Underwoods Fine Jewelers.
A concave cut green tourmaline by John Dyer & Co, set in a ring by Laurie Donovan Designs.
A concave cut green tourmaline, set in a ring by Laurie Donovan Designs.
John Dyer & Co StarBrite blue sapphire in a ring by Artrium Jewelry.
Brite blue sapphire in a ring.
John Dyer & Co StarBrite pink sapphire ring by Artrium Jewelry.
StarBrite pink sapphire ring by Artrium Jewelry.
John Dyer & Co Ripple Top cut aquamarine in a ring by Originals.
Ripple Top cut aquamarine in a ring by Originals.
John Dyer & Co concave cut aquamarine set in a ring by Chromia Mountings.
Concave cut aquamarine set in a ring by Chromia Mountings.