Krishna Choudhary represents the tenth generation of a family of jewelers who have provided jewels to the Maharajas of India for many centuries. His father, Santi Chowdhary, founded one of the country’s most exclusive Houses, Royal Gems Arts, in Jaipur. But in 2019, the son opened his own company Santi, named after the parent, producing only 12-15 items a year.
Working from a private salon in London’s Mayfair, Chowdhary focuses on rare antique stones, weaving them into contemporary designs inspired by Mughal art and architecture, and drawing on his family’s vast collection of jewels. So, in a pair of platinum earrings, the central place is occupied by two round Golconda diamonds, cut in the 19th century, with a total weight of 5.4 carats. Smaller white diamonds of 6.18 carats surround the Golcondas, echoing the pattern of ancient ceremonial ankle bracelets. “The idea was to create a hypnotic loop of diamonds with a play of space inside,” Chowdhary explains. “The result was the effect of stones floating in the air, retaining the lightness of the decoration.”
Working in partnership with artisan makers in Milan and Paris, Chowdhary creates just a few rare designs a year. He introduces them to a growing list of fans by appointment only. In London, they meet at Choudhary’s bijoux Mayfair. “I try to take the best from India, the best from Paris and Milan,” he says of his travels around the world. “The world is smaller and I think you should choose the best you can.”