Stylized bird brooch (gold, aquamarine, sapphires, diamonds), Pierre Sterle, circa 1970
Pierre Sterle learned the craft from his uncle, who became his guardian after his father’s death during the First World War. In 1934, Sterle founded his own company. From 1934 to 1939 he designed decorations for such famous houses as Boucheron and Chaumet.
Sterle jewelry is known for its innovative craftsmanship and creative use of gemstones. Flora and fauna were his main source of inspiration. One of their most famous designs is the bird motif. In the closed and elitist world of Place Vendôme, he was considered something of a revolutionary: atypical, courageous and talented. For three years in a row, he has received the prestigious De Beers International Diamond Award.
Stylized bird brooch (gold, labradorite, diamonds), Pierre Sterlet, circa 1960
The bird was a popular and recurring motif in jewelry in the 1950s and 60s, and Pierre Sterle developed his own very personal interpretation. His stylized birds, engraved with golden plumage, are often decorated with flexible feather-like chains that “flutter” when worn. Fringes woven from gold wire “fil d’ange” or “angel wire” invented in 1957.
Between the 1950s and 1970s, Sterle was considered one of the finest jewelry designers in France, using gemstones such as turquoise or amethyst along with diamonds. Sterle preferred to be called a “jewellery couturier” rather than a jeweler. His notable accomplishments include the creation of the crown of Queen Narriman, the wife of the Egyptian King Farouk, as well as jewelery for the Begum Aga Khan and the Maharani of Baroda. The Pierre Sterlé firm operated until 1976, when Chaumet bought its shares and hired Pierre Sterlé as artistic advisor.
Winged brooches by Pierre Sterle
Gold, mother-of-pearl, turquoise, diamonds, circa 1960Brooch in the form of a bird (gold, labradorite, diamonds), Pierre Sterle, circa 1960Brooch in the form of a bird on a branch (gold, emerald, sapphires, diamonds), Pierre Sterle, 1960sBird brooch (gold, tourmaline, mother-of-pearl, diamonds), Pierre Sterlet, circa 1965Brooch in the shape of a bird on a branch (gold, labradorite, diamonds), Pierre Sterle, 1960sBrooch in the form of a bird on a branch (gold, pearls, diamonds), Pierre Sterle, 1963Gold, pearls, diamonds.Brooch in the form of a bird (gold, pearls, diamonds), 1966Brooch Parrot (gold, coral, emeralds, diamonds), circa 1960Bird brooch (gold, carved tourmaline, diamonds), circa 1960Bird brooch (gold, platinum, labradorite, diamonds), 1960sBrooch in the form of a bird (gold, green chalcedony, coral, diamonds), circa 1960Exotic bird brooch (gold, platinum, zoisite-amphibolite with ruby, diamonds), before 1963Bird in flight brooch (gold, labradorite, diamonds), 1960Gold, lapis lazuli, diamonds, 1960sBird (gold, emerald, diamonds), circa 1960Brooch in the form of a bird (gold, black sapphire, diamonds).Brooch in the shape of a man with a parrot on his shoulder (gold, mother-of-pearl, turquoise, diamonds), 1970Diamond bird brooch with emerald eye (white gold, emerald, diamonds), Pierre Sterle for Chaumet, circa 1960Bird brooch (gold, mother-of-pearl, lapis lazuli, diamonds), early 1970s
