Do you think there is nothing more outdated than the Russian national costume?
John Galliano and Karl Lagerfeld would disagree with you.
“Russian hysteria” began abroad with the filing of Sergei Diaghilev. At the beginning of the last century, “Russian Seasons” made the world fall in love not only with ballet, but also with our national costume. The liberation designer Paul Poiret, who was the first to create a collection of outfits in the Russian style, also did his best. It was necessary to wait 60 years until the next coming of Russia to the catwalks, but it was worth it – Yves Saint Laurent called his most beautiful collection the Russian Opera and Ballet of 1976.
After 30 years, the designers have once again imbued with the Russian spirit. In 2009, Chanel presented the Paris-Moscow collection at the Maly Theater. Gold, furs, precious stones and kokoshniks decorated with pearls reigned on the catwalk. The highlight of the collection is the matryoshka-shaped handbags. That year, the 10th anniversary of the Vogue edition in Russia was celebrated. In honor of this event, global brands have released nesting dolls in the style of their fashion houses.
More than once, the Valentino brand has turned to traditional Russian motives. The fall-winter 2013/2014 show was completed by a galaxy of models in elegant dresses under Gzhel. Long braids and natural make-up reinforced the Russian style. And looking at the collection of 2015, my soul aches from tenderness to native motives. Filigree embroidery on linen fabrics, lavishly decorated sheepskin vests – each image is made with a sincere respect for culture, thanks to Maestro Garavani for that.
Jean-Paul Gaultier did not bypass the Russian costume.
In 2005, the designer went on a trip to Little Russia. He embodied his impressions of the trip in a wonderful Russian collection: an abundance of embroidery, painted scarves, cocked hats trimmed with fur. Even the models’ hair was styled like kokoshniks. Jean-Paul came up with a Russian name for each image: “Svetlana”, “Natasha”, “Petrushka”, “Matryoshka”. It may be primitive, but still cute.
John Galliano also breathes unevenly towards the Russian style.
He has repeatedly embodied the history and rich culture of our country in his own collections and the collections of the house of Dior. Either models in luxurious dresses portrayed Russian princesses hiding from the Bolsheviks, or Rasputin, powdered with snow, aggressively paced in a long coat.
A special place among the works of Galliano is occupied by the fall-winter 2009/2010 collection. He dedicated it to Russian-Balkan folklore. The catwalk was filled with exquisite embroidery, headwear inspired by kokoshniks, voluminous sleeves and trapezoidal silhouettes. Falling artificial snow also created the Russian atmosphere.