No conversation about American jewelry designers can be completed without mentioning Seaman Schepps. Did you know that the absolutely modern “doorknocker” earrings made of wood and diamonds, as well as bracelets made of rock crystal and diamonds were created by him more than 50 years ago?
The only clues that give away their age are old photographs and magazine clippings. Among them are pieces made for Doris Duke and the Duchess of Windsor. There are over 5,000 drawings from which the jewelery house today recreates pieces, each handmade in a New York workshop.
Today, Turbo shell earrings set in gold and adorned with diamonds and precious stones (Jacqueline Kennedy’s favourite) remain the best sellers. “Design is so relevant today,” says Anthony Hopenheim, who bought the brand from the founder’s daughter in 1992. “These earrings were the uniform of women in New York and Palm Beach, and like any great design, they are ageless and still relevant today.”
Shepps (1881–1972) opened his first New York store at 516 Madison Avenue in 1931. His creative designs, including expressive animals, jewelry with large pearls and baroque gems, were inspired by trips to Paris and the natural world.
“Schepps’ style reflected America as a whole,” Hopenheim says. “His designs tended to be larger than life, with bolder use of color, and he wasn’t deterred by preconceived notions that you couldn’t mix seashell with diamonds.”
Shown casually, these whimsical patterns and unusual mixed materials exemplify Shepps’ irreverent approach to diamonds, pearls and gemstones. This attitude is especially characteristic of today’s trendsetters.
