Jewelry

Solier – Scandinavian brooch

Gold plated silver necklace by Hilde Nodtveidt modern work. Photo by Eva Braendt.
Gold plated silver necklace by Hilde Nodtveidt modern work. Photo by Eva Braendt.

The Norwegian salt brooch is a buckle with a round hole in the middle, on one side of which is attached a spike that can be threaded through the fabric to attach it to clothing. The term “salt” is also used for similar decorations in Denmark and Sweden. Soliers were the goav pectoral in Norwegian folk costumes, and their form and symbolism have many variations.

The rose saltier is a brooch with six kidney-shaped or pretzel-shaped figures assembled into a ring or wreath. Salle roses are one of the most ancient varieties of brooches and have a shape reminiscent of a Romanesque ornament of the 12th century. Antique rose brooches were made of filigree or cast silver and copper alloys. Filigree work went out of fashion at the end of the Middle Ages, only to return again at the end of the 19th century.

Solier by Marius Hammer 1847 1927 as part of a national costume from the collection of the New National Museum in Oslo.
Solier by Marius Hammer 1847 1927 as part of a national costume from the collection of the New National Museum in Oslo.

Bolesolele is a voluminous brooch with convex circles soldered onto a round plate. Ancient cast bolesoles were decorated with images of animals, crowned persons and plant motifs on the bottom plate. It was probably only in the early 1700s that bolesole with filigree began to be made. A filigree bolesole can contain between 400 and 700 individual handmade pieces. Bolesoliers were among the most expensive brooches. In the 18th century, their price reached 4 riksdaler, which corresponded to the cost of a good cow!

Solier in gilded silver modern work.
Solier in gilded silver modern work.

The hornsolier is a brooch in the form of a thick wire ring, to which figurines, filigree decorations and pendant rivets or barley grain pendants can be attached. Hornsole is also made with a plate in the middle and two spikes.

Slangesole is a brooch with a pattern of concentric ornamental rings with six through arches between the two rings.

Trandheim solier – one of the most expensive types of brooches, richly decorated with filigree, with one or two spikes.

17th century saltier in gilded silver. New National Museum Oslo.
17th century saltier in gilded silver. New National Museum Oslo.

16th century saltier in gilded silver. New National Museum Oslo.
16th century saltier in gilded silver. New National Museum Oslo.
Salt of the 16th century in silver with gilding and filigree. New National Museum Oslo.
Salt of the 16th century in silver with gilding and filigree. New National Museum Oslo.
Silver necklace by an unknown author. New National Museum Oslo.
Silver necklace by an unknown author. New National Museum Oslo.
Silver necklace circa 1650. New National Museum Oslo.
Silver necklace circa 1650. New National Museum Oslo.
16th century silver gilt necklace New National Museum Oslo.
16th century silver gilt necklace New National Museum Oslo.
Silver gilt trundheim sole with two studs by Eyvind G. Thwaiten. Photo of the West Telemark Museum.
Silver gilt trundheim sole with two studs by Eyvind G. Thwaiten. Photo of the West Telemark Museum.
Trandheim sole in gilded silver. Photo by Anne Lise Reinsfelt Norwegian Folk Museum.
Trandheim sole in gilded silver. Photo by Anne Lise Reinsfelt Norwegian Folk Museum.
Hornsole in gilded silver. Photo by Anne Lise Reinsfelt Norwegian Folk Museum.
Hornsole in gilded silver. Photo by Anne Lise Reinsfelt Norwegian Folk Museum.
Hornsolier in silver with barley grain filigree and two studs. Photo by Anne Lise Reinsfelt Norwegian Folk Museum.
Hornsolier in silver with barley grain filigree and two studs. Photo by Anne Lise Reinsfelt Norwegian Folk Museum.
Hornsole in silver with figures of a rider and a lion. Photo by Anne Lise Reinsfelt Norwegian Folk Museum.
Hornsole in silver with figures of a rider and a lion. Photo by Anne Lise Reinsfelt Norwegian Folk Museum.
Silver gilt glibbsole from Kvam in Hordaland. Photo by Anne Lise Reinsfelt Norwegian Folk Museum.
Silver gilt glibbsole from Kvam in Hordaland. Photo by Anne Lise Reinsfelt Norwegian Folk Museum.
Erlandsolier in silver purchased in 1878. Photo by Anne Lise Reinsfelt Norwegian Folk Museum.
Erlandsolier in silver purchased in 1878. Photo by Anne Lise Reinsfelt Norwegian Folk Museum.
Bolesole with silver gilt filigree 1914 by Eyvind G. Tveiten Norwegian Folk Museum.
Bolesole with silver gilt filigree 1914 by Eyvind G. Tveiten Norwegian Folk Museum.
Silversmith Knut Helle working on a filigree installation of details on a bolesole photo by Kirre Grepp 1959 Norwegian Folk Museum.
Silversmith Knut Helle working on a filigree installation of details on a bolesole photo by Kirre Grepp 1959 Norwegian Folk Museum.
Solid silver rose saltier from Nome in Telemark. Photo by Anne Lise Reinsfelt Norwegian Folk Museum.
Solid silver rose saltier from Nome in Telemark. Photo by Anne Lise Reinsfelt Norwegian Folk Museum.
Cast rose saltire in gilded silver from Vallee in Ost Agder. Photo by Anne Lise Reinsfelt Norwegian Folk Museum.
Cast rose saltire in gilded silver from Vallee in Ost Agder. Photo by Anne Lise Reinsfelt Norwegian Folk Museum.
Gilded silver saltire with filigree pendants Marius Hammer circa 1910. New National Museum Oslo.
Gilded silver saltire with filigree pendants Marius Hammer circa 1910. New National Museum Oslo.