6 Russian brands of unusual jewelry: From ironic engravings to real mysticism
A few years ago, it was hard not to notice the boom in minimalist jewelry: elegant mono-earrings, signet rings and thin pendants were presented in such an assortment that it was simply impossible to make a choice, and news about the next “young indie brand from Russia” appeared every day. However, trends are for that and trends to replace each other at breakneck speed. We were soon taken by the interest in dadcore with its massive chains, and then, in quarantine, we were putting baroque pearls and woven beaded baubles into online baskets.
“Not for everyone,” the Instagram account (the social network is recognized as extremist and banned on the territory of the Russian Federation) directly declares the concept store 72 on Nikitsky Boulevard.
The hit of Pavel Ryzhenkov’s brand is the Hopui-Khanui silver reverse rings in the form of a cross. We will leave the decoding of these simple anagrams to you and add only that the Ryzhenkov Jewelry collection also has less radical ways to express your mood or view of what is happening in the world. For example, textured cufflinks “Fences PO-2” or pendants with “Dance of the Little Swans” and engraving “1991” on the back. You can order them on the brand’s website.
Konstantin Gayday Treasure
Designer Konstantin Gaidai has revived a line of jewelry in 2020. Each piece of Gayday Treasure jewelry is created in a single copy or a mini-circulation – all because of rare materials that are better described as artifacts: the products use enamel or stones of the 19th century, crosses and minted coins. The brand’s latest novelties are charm pendants with the symbol of 2021. An amulet in the form of an animal skull carved from a buffalo horn flaunts on a chain of blackened silver with gilding. The figurine with topaz inlay (there is a variant with yellow sapphires and red spinel) was made on the island of Java near Mount Merapi. Gayday Treasure Talismans can be purchased from the Laboratory.
The dark fantasy of designer Into Niilo literally turns physics into a bizarre and slightly frightening lyric. The most famous jewelry of the brand are earrings and brass knuckles in the form of teeth made of moonstone and opal, and in the latest Precious Parts collection, this physiological motif was supplemented by fingernail rings on the phalanges and brooches in the shape of a golden cast of a nipple. Sensual works of art into|into invite you to love every little detail of your body, and it’s hard to think of a better way to do this than to sing them in precious materials. You can get acquainted with the creations of Into by individual appointment on the website of the NOB agency.
Jewelry designer Niko was born in Kyrgyzstan and has been immersed in the local ritual culture since childhood. So, many years later, decorations in the form of occult objects were born: claw pendants and rings in the form of animal vertebrae. Rhoebermat collections can be found in the Avgvst store on Patriarchy, but Niko makes the most interesting items, in our opinion, on order. These are massive chain-snakes made of silver in the form of a soft bending spine. Magic has never been so trendy.
In her brand account, jeweler Anna Grigoryeva quotes Jung and Tarkovsky’s Solaris, not only in signatures, but also in her works, agreeing or arguing with the authors of the past. The aesthetics of the brand is built around the color and texture of silver: Phosphor does not have smooth polished surfaces. Anna’s products are something between art objects and medieval jewelry that has retained the imprint of time. Rings-bandages and rings-skulls, engravings on the inside, referring just to the ancient mourning jewelry momento mori – with such talismans you will involuntarily have to face your shadow side. Look for Phosphor in the store and Poison Drop corners.