Jewelers

Gerard Sandoz

Eggshell and lacquer cigarette box Gerard Sandoz.
Eggshell and lacquer cigarette box Gerard Sandoz.

Gerard Sandoz is the same age as the 20th century (1902 – 1995). His fate (like the fate of Raymond Templier or Jean Fouquet) was determined by family traditions. Under the strict guidance of his father, goldsmith Gustave-Roger Sandoz, at the age of 18 he took his first steps in the jewelry business, strengthening the fame of La Maison Gustave Sandoz.

Art Deco enamel and onyx cigarette case Gerard Sandoz.
Art Deco enamel and onyx cigarette case Gerard Sandoz.

However, Gerard’s career in this field was unexpectedly short, in 1928 his father sold his business to Georges L’Enfant, for whom Gerard worked as art director for several years until the closing of the jewelry house La Maison Gustave Sandoz. The heart of the young Sandoz was given to the cinema, the Great Silent made the artist develop as dynamically as before – in the jewelry art.

Art Deco onyx and aventurine pendant Gerard Sandoz 1929.
Art Deco onyx and aventurine pendant Gerard Sandoz 1929.
Art Deco onyx and rock crystal pendant 1928 1929.
Art Deco onyx and rock crystal pendant 1928 1929.

In 1929, Sandoz, along with his associates and friends – architects and artists, in search of a new word in art, participated in the creation of the “Union of Contemporary Artists” / L’Union des Artistes Modernes or UAM, which, in fact, was an alternative to the Parisian “Society of Artists – decorators”/SAD. The new association declared the need to make art accessible: “Modern art is indeed social art, art accessible to all, and not an imitation of the vanity of a few.”

Lacquered silver cufflinks Gerard Sandoz 1929.
Lacquered silver cufflinks Gerard Sandoz 1929.
Art Deco hematite onyx and citrine necklace 1928.
Art Deco hematite onyx and citrine necklace 1928.

In addition to jewelry, fashionable cigarette cases and minaudi√®res, Sandoz created several original vases. Their number is a big question for historians and collectors, today 15 vases of different design are known, created in 1923-1924. The vases are made of copper and covered with hot enamel using the champlev√© technique. Gerard’s father, Gustave-Roger Sandoz, was friendly with Emile Galle, creating a “noble frame” for vases from Galle’s laminated glass, so such experiments were quite conditioned by family tradition. Another issue is that the aesthetics were completely different.

Rock crystal carnelian and onyx brooch 1982.
Rock crystal carnelian and onyx brooch 1982.
Ring white gold gray chalcedony and polished rock crystal. 1985.
Ring white gold gray chalcedony and polished rock crystal. 1985.
Ring 1928 silver gold hot enamel. Collection of the Museum of Decorative Arts Paris.
Ring 1928 silver gold hot enamel. Collection of the Museum of Decorative Arts Paris.
Vase copper hot enamel patination 1923.
Vase copper hot enamel patination 1923.
Vase cameo glass metal 1899.
Vase cameo glass metal 1899.